By Susan Heinrich

A sailing holiday in Greece is a bucket-list experience for many, with good reason. Greece is a unique mix of ancient history, delicious food, and stunning scenery. And since its diverse geography includes thousands of islands, a skippered sailing holiday is an ideal way to explore. 

I was visiting Greece as a solo female traveler, so had decided to join a guided tour. I chose Traverse Journeys because I appreciated their responsible travel philosophy and knew they would take care of the planning and logistics. A tour also offered the chance to join a group of like-minded travelers to share this sailing experience with. 

Before we set sail from Athens on a warm day in late May, I had only ever done a day trip on a sailboat. I’d seen the photos of catamarans moored in turquoise waters, and colorful ports with tavernas draped in pink bougainvillea. Could it really be that idyllic? 

In this review of my sailing holiday in Greece, I’ll share the ways this unique vacation was, and wasn’t, what I expected, and what made the experience extra special.

Sailing holiday in Greece: What to Expect

The Alimos Marina in Athens was bustling. We climbed on board our catamaran and were given a tour by our captain, Haris Psaropolous. The boat was 50 feet long, larger than I imagined.  It felt very spacious; certainly roomy enough for the nine of us.  We were shown to our assigned rooms; there were two in the bow and three in the stern, each with an ensuite bath. My cabin was bright and had lots of storage space. Added bonus - the boat had air conditioning, which is sometimes hard to come by in Europe. I could have managed without the AC, but I sleep more soundly in cooler temperatures, so it was a nice feature.

I was a little nervous about the amount of sun I’d get while sailing in Greece, so I packed an extremely large hat and loads of sunscreen (SPF50). I was pleased to arrive and discover the boat had a spacious shaded seating area at the stern where we could enjoy coastline views while taking a break from the sun.  

The open-concept living space in the middle of the boat included a large sofa and table, as well as the kitchen. 

Sailing Holiday in Greece: Life at Sea

My main concern as we set out was whether I’d get seasick. As part of their pre-departure package, Traverse Journeys had included suggestions for managing any nausea. I arrived stocked with several types of medication and took an over-the-counter Bonine tablet to pre-empt problems.  I did not want to miss the special welcome dinner planned for our first evening! 

Luckily, I didn’t need to worry after that, as I didn’t require medication for the rest of the trip. Other travelers used sea bands on their wrists to keep nausea at bay. Ginger and peppermint teas are also helpful although I didn’t need them. I should add that we were fortunate with very calm seas. While the lack of wind limited our ability to actually sail, cruising through the turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea was just as enjoyable for me. 

I knew we were in good hands the first time Captain Haris pulled out his map of the Saronic Gulf, spreading it on the table and inviting us to gather around. A former Captain in the Greek Navy, the sea was clearly his happy place. He would entertain us with wonderful stories and anecdotes, throughout the week. Our First Mate, Joy Sherman, is from the U.S. Northeast and has led sailing charters for 15 years, in destinations around the world. Joy and Haris are two very different people with a common love of sailing. It was fun watching them work together and I think we all felt we were in great hands. 

Our tour leader, Ashley Blake is also the founder of Traverse Journeys, and surprised us with welcome bags with local Greek treats inside. Ashley is easygoing and incredibly organized. Ashley immediately set a wonderful tone for the trip: her curiosity about new cultures and enjoyment of new experiences, and new foods - were infectious.  

Of course, the benefit of traveling by boat is access to Greece’s stunning coastline. We enjoyed several stops for swimming in picturesque coves, and the water temperature was pleasant in late May. The catamaran was equipped with stand-up paddle boards and snorkel sets, both of which I used and enjoyed. I love swimming and water sports so this aspect of sailing in Greece was ideal for me.

A special thrill for all was the appearance of dolphins one afternoon. They swam and played near the boat, and performed a dramatic finale with a synchronized swim at our bow.

Sailing in Greece: Saronic Gulf Itinerary

The Saronic Gulf islands are known as the “off-shore islands” by locals, due to their proximity to Athens; some are even close enough for day trips. Each of the five destinations on our Greece sailing holiday was different from the next and offered a unique window into Greek culture and history. We stayed one night at each island, giving us an opportunity to explore each unique stop and enjoy dinner ashore.

Our first stop, the island of Aegina, charmed us with its colorful port and fragrant landscape of pine forests and pistachio groves. The Aegina pistachio is a small reddish nut and considered the world’s most delicious variety. I found their flavor more delicate than traditional pistachios, almost citrusy. A stand near the port beckoned with an elaborate display of pistachios. I selected two bags and the friendly purveyor suggested I also try her pistachio pesto and pistachio jam. Delicious! They were promptly added to my purchase.

From there we sailed to Hydra, the celebrity isle of the group which felt much more cosmopolitan. Several movies have been made here, and its hilly port and interesting architecture did seem to offer an ideal backdrop for fun, frolic, and intrigue. 

Spetses was the fanciest of the islands we saw, with its yachts and mansions.  We had the choice of walking around town, spending the afternoon at one of the island's pretty beach clubs, or cycling around the island. I opted for the beach club and since it was shoulder season I was given the VIP treatment by the charming staff. I can confirm that Greek rosé is delicious.

From Spetses it was on to Poros, which had an exceptionally pretty port and beaches dotted around the island. Having missed cycling in Spetses, I rode an e-bike around the island perimeter and enjoyed the gorgeous scenery. 

Last on our itinerary was Epidaurus, a port city on the Argolid Peninsula of the Peloponnese region where we had the option to go scuba diving and explore some of the region’s remarkable ancient history. And a few of us decided to visit a winery near Epidaurus, so we hopped in a taxi which wound its way up the coast. We were greeted by Nectarios Andreou, the third generation of his family to own the sprawling property that is today the Andreou Winery. I was fascinated by a 150-year-old amphora that is used to age some of Andreou’s red wines. Nectarios led us on a tasting of some of the delicious wines they produce. I especially enjoyed the whites and purchased a bottle of Andreou Issorropitsis which is made with a grape I had never heard of, the Roditis Fox.

Exploring Ancient Greece on the Islands

Because the Saronic Gulf islands had ancient city-states as significant as Athens, there were incredible monuments to explore on our Greece sailing holiday. 

In Aegina, we visited the Temple of Aphaia, a stunning Doric monument set on a pine-covered hill with lovely sea views. It was built around 500 BCE and dedicated to the Greek goddess it’s named for, Aphaia. It was the only such temple in Ancient Greece. 

In Epidaurus, we toured the Asclepius Sanctuary, an important healing center in the ancient world. Within the complex is the remarkable Epidaurus Amphitheater, the most intact ancient amphitheater in Greece, dating to the 4th century BCE. It is famed for its perfect architectural proportions and incredible acoustics. Summer performances are still staged here. 

We also had the option to snorkel to see the Sunken City of Epidaurus, the underwater ruins of a large villa - primarily pieces of what appeared to have been giant vases, and long stretches of ancient walls. The water was very clear and it was great fun to swim atop the ruins and imagine what was once here.

Greek Cuisine

I expected Greek food to be delicious but didn’t fully appreciate just how exceptional it can be.

We typically ate breakfast and lunch on the boat and then dined out each evening. Our catamaran was well-stocked. While in port, Joy, and Ashley would pick up local treats such as seasonal fruit, island specialties like the Aegina pistachios, and fresh-baked pastries. Greek mountain tea, a naturally caffeine-free herbal drink, and the locally-made Greek yogurt with honey were both excellent.

Dinner was mostly exceptional. Seasonal ingredients were showcased on every menu and the dishes were incredibly flavorful. Wild greens known as horta were similar to Swiss chard but with a more nuanced flavor and seasoned with an interesting spice mix. The eggplant was also in season and it seemed to be endlessly reimagined. Even the traditional Greek dishes were so superior to what I had tried in the past, it was like tasting something entirely different. Hello, my new friend, moussaka. 

Freshly caught fish was always on offer. The red snapper was delicious with a delicate flavor, and we tried a Mediterranean tuna variety known as bullet tuna, also very nice. Meat dishes were always available, lamb is very popular in Greece, but the meat never felt central to the meal. 

The olives and capers were briny little flavor bombs, and the feta was sublime, with a unique tang and texture thanks to the combination of sheep and goat’s milk that distinguishes it from the subpar version made with cow’s milk. 

And yes, while Mediterranean cuisine is healthy, there was lots to indulge in: deep-fried cheese, crisp calamari, spanakopita (spinach pie) - all so good that thinking about them has me ready to book a return trip. My favorite desserts were a combination of nuts, phyllo pastry, and the ever-present Greek honey.

Giving Back in Greece

Our Sailing Holiday in Greece began and finished in Athens. As part of Traverse Journey’s responsible travel policy, they partner with a non-profit organization in every destination where they offer tours and donate 3% of trip proceeds to the partner organization. 

In Greece, that partner is Lighthouse Relief which provides dignified immediate and long-term support to people experiencing displacement. On our final day, we visited Lighthouse in Athens, to learn more about their humanitarian work. It began in October 2015 in response to the refugee crisis on the Aegean island of Lesvos where 50-60 boats were arriving each day in the small fishing community of 100 people. Today Lighthouse Relief provides psychosocial support and emergency aid to refugees and asylum seekers in Athens and at the Ritsona refugee camp - crucial services to people in very difficult circumstances. 

After the visit, we hopped on Athens’ impressive metro with the Lighthouse staff, and they led us on a walk through the vibrant city center. 

Reflections on my Sailing Holiday in Greece

Because a skippered sailing holiday allowed us to visit many places in a short time, each with its own unique character, I felt I experienced much more of Greece than I expected from a six-day trip. I also loved the catamaran experience more than I thought I would; I would have been thrilled with a few more days.

I’ve done other group tours and come to realize that the pace is important. Sleeping somewhere new every couple of nights requires a lot of packing and unpacking, as well as time spent in transit. 

The wonderful thing about a sailing holiday is that I unpacked once and slept in the same bed all week. Traveling around by catamaran was ideal. I loved spending time on the bow, enjoying the scenery, and taking photos. We were able to see so much, yet the pace felt relaxed. 

If you decide to do this trip as a solo female traveler, I would consider getting a cabin to yourself. I really appreciated having my own space. (If I were traveling with my husband or a close friend, I would have been happy to share.) 

What I Most Appreciated About my Sailing Holiday in Greece with Traverse Journeys

When I think about why this trip was so enjoyable for me, a few things stand out. The details of the trip were beautifully planned, yet Ashley left room for spontaneity.  Everything felt seamless. Not having to think about daily travel logistics allowed me to immerse myself in the experience. 

As a solo female traveler, I really enjoyed having time to myself, as well as time with my traveling companions.  

I think what was most special about the trip was how authentic the experience felt. Greece is a popular destination with more than 30 million visitors in 2019 (pre-pandemic). Yet, other than Athens, we encountered few tourists. We were the only ones at the Temple of Aphaia on the morning we visited, and there were perhaps a few dozen visitors at the Epidaurus Amphitheater. 

In part, that was due to the fact we were touring Greece in the shoulder season, which I highly recommend, but I think it had to do with our itinerary as well. The islands we visited are popular with Greek vacationers due to their proximity to Athens, and they tend to visit in summer. Even with more people, we would have been amongst locals, rather than foreign visitors.

Now that I’ve come to learn more about Traverse Journeys, none of this is surprising. Creating an authentic experience for guests is at the heart of every trip they create. It’s what made this trip special and why I’ve already hopped on to their website to search for the next Traverse Journeys’ adventure I’ll add to my bucket list. 

Disclaimer: I was a media partner with Traverse Journeys on this trip. I received a press discount in exchange for sharing a review of my experience.

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