Wild Atlantic Way - Ireland Road Trip — Traverse Journeys

Guest blogger Susanna Kelly of Wandering Chocobo shares in-depth details for the ideal Ireland road trip.

Traversing across Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way was one of my top trip highlights for 2019. Traverse Journey’s carefully planned itinerary is full of local insider knowledge, rural hidden gems, awe-inspiring nature, authentic culture, photogenic viewpoints, and just the right amount of iconic landmarks to please all types of adventurers. Here is just a glimpse of what 10 perfect days on the Wild Atlantic Way looks like..

Photo: Susanna Kelly / Wandering Chocobo

Ireland Road trip, Day One: Cork

Cork, Ireland is the perfect launching point for the Wild Atlantic Way. You’ll fall in love with this multi-faceted city with an in-depth walking tour with a Cork local, sharing the hidden gems of their home town. A walking tour of Cork will take you through ancient history with a look at ancient Irish writing on Ogham stones, the gruesome history of the medieval times, and continue into modern Cork with its artistic culture and local flare. For a spookier tour, don’t miss Traverse Journey’s local guide, Damian, in his ghost tour of Cork provided year-round for visitors to Cork city.

After exploring the cobblestone alleys and hidden gems of Cork, end the day with a hearty dinner at a local Irish farm-to-table restaurant such as Market Lane. While traveling with Traverse Journeys, these types of local dining experiences are included and are a great way to break the ice to get acquainted with your small group. Market Lane is a local favorite that will leave you thinking, “Everything I knew about Irish food was wrong!”

After dinner, a tour through Cork’s heritage pubs, such as Sin E, might be in the books for those interested in the lively nightlife. After a pint or two at a heritage pub, it is time to head back to the cozy Heritage BnB Shandon Bells B&B. One of the highlights of Shandon Bells B&B is its location on the River Lee so that you can start your morning with a piping hot cup of coffee and home-cooked breakfast with a view of the rushing river. For more tips on exploring Cork city and the surround region, check out these in-depth tips.

Day 2: Blarney Gardens and Kinsale

One of the best parts about starting your Wild Atlantic Way itinerary in Cork is it’s proximity to Blarney Castle and Stone, which is the highlight of day two. If you think the Blarney Stone might be too touristy, crowded, and over-hyped, think again because visiting first thing in the morning with Traverse Journeys means you’re able to kiss the stone with no crowds. Blarney Castle is so much more than kissing the stone; in fact, sprawling gardens make it easy to lose several hours exploring. Most people just kiss the stone and leave, but slowing down and taking time to visit the horse graveyard, underground caves, manicured rose, and fern gardens make for a relaxing morning away from many of the tourists.

If you have some extra time, stop by Blarney Woolen Mills, the “largest Irish store in the world,” and stock up on all your woolen products to keep you warm and stylish throughout the year.

Ending the day in colorful Kinsale is a real treat. An afternoon walking tour will get you acquainted with the city, so you can venture out on your own with a scenic walk to Ft. Charles, or shopping at boutique shops with plenty of hand-made and local products. The real highlight of Kinsale is getting lost among the colorful houses and eating your way through the town. A foodie city, changing the Irish food scene, there is something for everyone from casual fish and chips, to Michelin Recommended gourmet food, to fancy wine bars. Before tucking in at the Rockview B&B a night on the town to see traditional Irish music at Dalton’s Bar recommended by a Kinsale local.

Before departing the next morning, a brisk walk along the harbor is a must to watch the birds fish and see the town come to life.

Day 3: Baltimore and Sherkin Island

As you venture further off the beaten path along the Wild Atlantic Way toward the seaside town of Baltimore, you enter a part of Ireland most locals don’t even see.

As you drive from Kinsale to Baltimore, hidden along the rolling green Irish hills are secrets such as Drombeg Stone Circle, a site that’s many 1000’s of years old. The short walk to stretch your legs and reach this site is well worth it with sweeping views into the ocean and the chance to see an intimate look at Irish history.

Once you arrive in Baltimore, relish in the fact that this sleepy town is a place often overlooked by both tourists and locals, offering a truly authentic look into rural Irish life. Waste no time before you hop on the Ferry to Sherkin Island. This stunning island contains a ruined Abbey, rugged coastlines, silvery sand beaches, and endless walking trails. If you visit during the shoulder season, you’ll find yourself one of the only tourists among the welcoming locals who have chosen life on a remote Irish island.

The outdoor adventures are not over. Back on the mainland, hike out to Baltimore’s stunning Beacon just before sunset. The bold purples and blues contrasting against the green Irish cliffs will go down in your memories as one of the best sunsets you will ever see.

The right way to end your day is in a cozy, locally owned accommodation like the Slipway B&B. Be sure to chat with the owners or locals for a peek into what life is like in Baltimore.

One night in Baltimore will not feel like enough, but the allure of more rural Beara Peninsula will push you onward in your authentic itinerary along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Day 4: Beara Peninsula

Driving along the Beara Peninsula is an unexpected treat with colorful towns and unforeseen views of nature.

For the mindful travelers who appreciate meditating among nature, visiting the Dzogchen Beara Buddhist temple for a vegan snack and a pause to meditate to the sound of crashing waves is a meaningful stop. The Ardgroom Stone circle is another chance to see a piece of history that is tucked away in the green hills past sheep herds and with mind-blowing views.

For a more extended stop, the town of Allihies welcomes you to explore the colorful houses. This one road town takes pride in their homes, as the residents have painted the town rainbow to pop on those rainy Irish days.

If you’re getting hungry along the way, stop at Teddy O’ Sullivans for lunch - I know, it’s the most Irish name but also one of the most authentic Irish experiences you can have! Order a Murphy’s and the local open-face crab sandwich and sit at the bar to strike up lively conversations with the owners and the locals that pop in share the local gossip and chat about the weather.

For one of the most extraordinary experiences you can have in Ireland, turn off the coastal road of the Beara Peninsula and head for Gleninchaquin Park. Pulling up to this hidden gem of a park, you’ll have to pick your jaw up off the floor! A waterfall tumbles off a sheer rock face while sheep peacefully graze on the bright green grass. If you are feeling adventurous, then take a short but steep hike over the waterfall for views out to the ocean and into the Irish hills. For those looking for a stroll, there is a scenic river walk and a heritage trail. Visiting this park will no doubt be one of the biggest highlights of your rural Wild Atlantic Way itinerary.

Coming full circle around the Beara Peninsula check into a rustic BnB in Castletownbere, an old fishing village for the night and dive into delicious options for dinner like Breen’s Lobster Bar or the top-notch Ocean Wild.

Day 5: Killarney National Park

Venturing into the more famous Ring of Kerry, you’ll start to see more tourists, but there are a few practical tips to visit Killarney National Park, which is a ‘do not miss’ along the WAW. As you head toward Muckross House and Abbey, stop at the Torc waterfall to stretch your legs with a misty moss-filled walk-in seeming magical fairyland. Be sure to walk the surrounding trails to get lost in the magical air of this ancient forest.

History buffs should visit the Ross Castle, partaking in this guided tour through an authentic Irish castle. See what life was like in Medieval times, including the exciting ways they cleaned their clothing! It is recommended to give yourself time at the castle as you can not pre-book the tour and may need to wait a bit for the next available group.

After the educational experience at Ross Castle, head to the less popular Muckross Abbey. Massive lines of tourist buses visit Muckross house, but the abbey is unlike any other in the area. It’s HUGE, and you can explore the hidden nooks and crannies of this historic abbey and the disheveled old graveyard accompanying it. If you’re lucky, you might even have the whole place to yourself - great for photographers and independent explorers!

Rather than staying in the rather busy town of Killarney, head to nearby Sneem and check into Bank House B&B, away from the crowds. Sneem is another colorful and truly authentic town nestled among dramatic hills at the head of the Sneem River. You’ll love wandering around Sneem’s charming streets with a sculpture walk and drinking coffee and many of the cozy cafes. Enjoy dinner at any of their local restaurant options that highlight Ireland’s gourmet cuisine.

Day 6: Ring of Kerry to Dingle

Rather than fight traffic on the Ring of Kerry, cut across the Kerry Peninsula heading toward the Dingle Peninsula on inland routes through Glencar or the Gap of Dunloe. These inland roads are often even more stunning than the Kerry coastline, crisscrossing through incredibly inland scenery with dramatic rocky peaks, and sprawling green hills dotted with hundreds of adorable sheep. Fair warning - these roads can be very narrow and winding, definitely only suited for confident drivers!

As you make your way onto the Dingle peninsula stop to see Minard Castle, a completely hidden gem just a few miles off the main road down a very rustic road. You will most likely have this isolated beach and castle to yourself, so get that camera ready to take postcard-worthy images of an Irish castle!

Check into a local An Portan in Dunquin for two nights for an authentic and relaxing stay on the coast away from the hustle and bustle of Dingle town.

After dinner, head over to Tig Bhric and West Kerry Brewery in rural Dingle for traditional music, locally brewed craft beer, and plenty of local cráic. Visit the brewery on a Friday night for late hours and the best music in town. Plenty of local taxi’s are available to make sure to get you home safe and sound after a night mingling with locals and enjoying music.

Day 7: Dingle Peninsula

Shake off any hangover you might have from the night before and gear up for a full day exploring the peninsula with scenic stops that will move you in ways only Ireland can.

You can stop just at just about any pullout along the way, but these are some of the ‘must-dos’ when exploring the edge of the Dingle peninsula.

Clogher Head Car Park is a quick stop for some of the most stunning images you’ll see during your Wild Atlantic Way road trip. Just beyond that is Clogher Head Strand, where you can park and enjoy a 30-60 minute loop trail along the coast. This walk nearly brought tears to my eyes because I felt so lucky to be in this place without another soul as the waves crashed and the lit up the vibrant grass.

For those more interested in culture and history, while exploring the stunning Slea Head drive be sure to stop by Dingle Sheepdog Demonstrations to see real working dogs in action with their owner and a local farmer. You can also learn about the haunting Irish famine and interact with various farm animals. Further down the road are the Irish beehive huts, where you can learn about historic Irish buildings. Both of these experiences are only a couple of Euro- making them educational and budget-friendly stops.

For another hike, head out to the mainlands westernmost point at Dunmore Head from the gorgeous Coumeenoole beach. Last, but not least, don’t miss Dunquin Harbor, for the picture-perfect sheep highway!

For lunch along the way, Dunquin Pottery Cafe is an excellent stop for a light soup and sandwich.

After getting your fill of scenic nature, it is time to head into Dingle town, stopping by the distillery for a tasting and tour to work up your appetite for Dingle’s fantastic seafood and thriving nightlife. For the best local recommended pubs, check out Foxy John’s, Dick Macks, or The Dingle Pub.

Day 8: County Clare & the Cliffs of Moher

You’re getting closer to the Cliffs of Moher and entering the charming County Clare! With a longer drive ahead of you, be sure to break it up with the car ferry from Tarbert plus a stop for lunch in scenic Kilkee, perhaps allowing time for a walk along the expansive beach for some fresh air.

Heading north along Clare’s scenic coastline, there are plenty of scenic viewpoints like Spanish Point before arriving to the lively town of Lahinch.

Make sure to get to the Cliffs of Moher for sunset. The local tip to avoid the crowds is to start at the Coastal Walking Trail and head toward the visitor center. The sunset at the Cliffs is an enlightening experience with vibrant colors and perfect light blessing the cliffs.

Overnight in Lahinch at Wild Atlantic Lodge or Cragshore B&B for a local experience with delightful hosts and check out Kenny’s bar or any of the lively restaurants along the main strip for an after-hours experience.

Day 9: the Burren & East Clare

Head to the Cliffs again early in the morning for an entirely different experience to watch the sunrise or explore the areas beyond what you were able to the previous day. Park at Guerin’s path for easy access to the trail and best viewpoints away from the crowds at the main entrance.

With plenty to explore in Clare, you can pick and choose between ancient sites in the Burren like Poulnabrome dolmen or the unique Doolin Cave.

For something a bit different, a visit to Irish Seed Savers is a unique experience that gives back to the locals and Ireland in a positive way. The Irish Seed Savers preserve Ireland’s heritage seeds and promote natural farming practices. You can take a tour of the farm to see the work they are doing and sample their tasty zero waste fresh apple cider. Make sure you pick up some heritage seeds to take home to plant in your garden for an authentic souvenir. And if you see Jason, make sure to tell him hello!

For another special experience, makes sure to book your wild foraging food walk with Wild Kitchen. The two-hour seaweed & wild food foraging experience will have you collecting and sampling various edible seaweed and local foods. Led by County Clare local, Oonaugh, this is a great way to learn about the local Irish flora and buff up your survival skills.

Discover even more authentic and local things to do in County Clare during your Wild Atlantic Way itinerary.

Day 10 and Beyond: Aran Islands and Galway

If you have more time to explore, then stay in Lahinch for an extra night and book a ferry from Doolin to the Aran Islands of Inis Mór or Inis Oírr. These remote and wild islands offer a unique look at Irish culture and history with plenty of forts, church ruins, and cross markers. You can also explore the natural side of Ireland by observing a seal colony, beaches, and fascinating geological features.

You can also head up to Galway for a few nights to experience its vibrant art scene with live music, street performers, art galleries, museums. Be sure to get lost in Galway’s Latin quarter with remnants of the medieval walls, quaint cafes, and boutique stores.

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way is a popular destination, and planning an authentic and local itinerary that supports the local economy and diffuses mass tourism is essential to planning the best nine days on the road. Save this itinerary to create your dream trip to Ireland or contact Traverse Journeys to join their small group tour with a local guide at your side the whole way. You can also book a custom trip to Ireland with Traverse Journeys to pick your own dates and curate the itinerary to suit you best!